More on resolution. (Moron resolution?)
I am, to be frank, a bit obsessive. Thus, my never-ending quest to help explain how resolution works for folks who don’t deal with it every day.
To recap, everybody asks for 300dpi digital files, which is well-meaning and sounds reasonable enough, but it’s just not correct. 300dpi is only part of a measurement for file sizes: we need to know 300dpi at what size.
Sometimes people push back and say things like, “This file won’t work. It’s not 300dpi.” And I try to explain that any file can be 300dpi. Then I sound like a jerk, and they still don’t believe me, and it’s a lose-lose all around.
Which brings me to this, which I found yesterday while surfing around the web site of the best photo lab in St. Louis (in my humble opinion), Allied Photocolor. Whenever someone asks me where they should go for anything photo/digital/lab/printing related, I refer them to Allied. Pro labs like this are a dying breed all across the country. I’m hoping that Allied’s skill will keep them around for a long, long time.
On their site is some helpful information of the sort about which I’m speaking. (How’s that for a grammatically correct sentence?) And it contains two Photoshop image size screenshots that tell the resolution story much better than I can.
In the end, it’s all about Pixel Dimensions. That “300dpi” thing only refers to how those pixels are allocated. As you can see, changing the resolution from 150dpi to 300dpi doesn’t affect the Pixel Dimensions unless you keep the document size the same. An 8×10 at 300dpi IS EXACTLY THE SAME PIXEL DIMENSIONS as a 16×20 at 150dpi. That’s right: one of them is 150dpi and one of them is 300dpi, but they are exactly the same file size. They’re, in fact, actually the same file. You’re just allocating more pixels per inch, or less pixels per inch, to change the physical printable size. That 150dpi 16×20 will print EXACTLY THE SAME as a 300dpi 8×10.
Trust me. Or trust Allied. It’s just the way it is.
Any questions, let me know…
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